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Hello Sean, Great site! Wondering about the durability and look of this product from Columbia coatings. All In One Chrome (Bonded) Urethane
ReplyDeleteThis is a one-stage chrome powder. The chrome and clear are bonded for single stage application. Stays glossy even on engine parts. Save time and money. Thanks, Mike
I haven't used it myself but I haven't heard any negative comments about it. From the pictures I have seen, it looks to be just as good as any of the good quality chrome powders and you don't have to worry about spraying a second coat.
DeleteOk I applied a base white,did full cure,cooled,added vinyl decal, applied 2nd coat and heated to 280 and removed from oven.when I demasked it left lines in the white base layer around the logo. Why? Was the first layer I not cure enough or perhaps I let the masking get too hot ?
ReplyDeleteTry pulling decal just after flow out
DeleteIs it possible to crome whole parts of my van and How do I do it. Did I got to spray with normal paint to make even and than only apply the crome powder coated. How many qty that I should order for my van.
ReplyDeleteDid I got to apply clear coated on top of the crome powder to make it long last.
Believe it can long last till 20 years if not scratch or bent.
Where do I got in Malaysia
I cannot answer all of your questions without more details, but you should not apply any paint on a part that you plan to powder coat. Powder coat works best on bare sandblasted metal. For the longest possible results, the steel parts on your van should be first coated with zinc-rich primer, then chrome, then a clear coat. All of these coats being powder coat. For aluminum parts, you can skip the zinc-rich primer. I'm not sure what parts on your van you are wanting to powder coat, so I cannot tell you how much to order.
DeleteHey Sean,
ReplyDeleteThis is by far the best guide on the internet for powder coating! I appreciate the information contained here. I built my own oven and have a buddy who is a certified electrician trying to help me wire it up. I have bought all the parts but have some questions on PID, SSR, and probe. If you have time I would appreciate some help trying to figure out the electronics of this oven. Email address is biomattersllc@gmail.com
Thank you so much!
Jerid
Hi Sean, Can I powder coat ceramic white wall tiles, I want a particular color for my kitchen splash back which is only available in powder coating colors. Any information would be great as I just can't seem to get the right answers on the correct product to use. Love your site, Thanks Pam
ReplyDeleteI have not personally done so, but I would imagine it is possible. Since the tiles are not able to be grounded, you will need to pre-heat them, shoot the powder while the tiles are still hot, and then put them back in the oven for a final cure. Then they can be installed.
DeleteThank you so very much Sean, I will give you an up date as I am taking the tiles off to the powder coater tomorrow. Cheers Pam Lawrence.
DeleteHi Sean, I passed your info on to my Powder Coater re pre-heating the tiles. I agreed to take full responsibility on the results. I am pleased to confirm the tiles turned out perfect. My powder coater is now using photo shots of my splash back as a new project to his business. Many thanks, Pam
Deleteis it possible to use TGIC clear coat on TGIC-free powders?
ReplyDeleteI was wondering if it would be possible to get some tips on doing large numbers of aluminum plates (about 1" X 2") at a time. I have followed the guidelines set up by this guide, but I am still having problems with effecient batching and transfer.
ReplyDeleteHi Sean,
ReplyDeleteI had a part quoted in china that needs to be white powder coated with food grade powder. they say it is but how can I be sure?
Hey Sean I tried to message you using the form you provided here on this page but it doesn't seem to be allowing me to submit my message. My question is have you or do you plan to write anything about building powder coating booths. I loved your writeups about oven building. I used them to build my big oven and soon will refer to them again when building my burn off oven. I finall have decent equipment everywhere except my powder booth which is seriously lacking. My homemade booth is basically the standard box with fan pulling air through a filter on the back wall. But now I'm needing something better because my business has grown. Im constantly striving to improve and this is one are I need serious help in. I could buy a booth but I really cant afford the payments on one because I'm trying to pay off my rotary screw compressor and sandblast cabinets. Plus I like to build my own stuff when I can. I just need advice on how to build a much better one than I have. Plus the one I built does not clean the air or collect powder. Thank in advance for anything you can offer. Jetmech4fun@yahoo.com
ReplyDeletewhat type of gloves do you use to pull your parts out of the oven?
ReplyDeleteI have a pair of welding gloves that I use when getting things in and out of the oven. Mostly they are to prevent me bumping the heating elements with my hands as I handle direct contact with all of the hooks with a pair of pliers.
DeleteHello! I am an enthusiast in powder coating, and I would like some professional help. I’ve been working on a project for two weeks, and I had trouble with coating two sides of a computer case (not simultaneously). For the computer case, I colored black for the outside, and white for the inside. The problem is that the computer case contains complicated curves, along with holes of different shapes and sizes. As of the moment, I am trying to mask each hole and surface with high-temp masking tape before applying my powder coating to the computer case. In my case, I cannot mask the case holes using silicon pull plugs, as that does not work. I am using the masking tape on a pre-cured side, which has a temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit. After this, I used the powder coating on a different side. After the procedure, the side containing the powder coat beings to melt. While the side melts, the masking tape stuck to the face deforms the surface. Can someone please help me out? I’ve already attempted to powder coat the computer case 5 times, and neither of these attempts were successful.
ReplyDeleteThanks for reading!
- Vigen
Hi there,
ReplyDeleteI was wondering if its possible to powder coat Nylon 12? Nylon 12 softens at 163 degrees Celsius and melts at 176. Is there a plastic that has a lower melting point that could be powder coated onto it?
Thank you
There is a limited color selection of low-cure powders out there that may work for this purpose. They generally cure at 280 F for 30 minutes or 300 F for 15 minutes.
DeleteWonder if you could slowly use a heat gun, heating it slowly then shot your powder, continue until it's completely covered.
DeleteHello, congratulations on creating a site full of so much useful information regarding powder coating! I have just had a steel bike frame powder coated, but this was returned to me with the masking tape still stuck to the steerer tube of the fork. This was partially removed over the thread on the top end of the steerer tube after curing, but a lot of residue, which looks like glue from this masking tape, is stuck there. I do not know how this glue residue together with the remainder of this masking tape should be removed. The tape is stuck solid to the steerer tube. After reading through your masking advice, I understand this should have been removed when still warm after curing. From my lack of prior experience with this painting process, I do not know if this is to be expected when the masking tape is left to cool down, even if it is of a heat-resistant type suitable for powder coating, or whether this is simply the result of using an unsuitable masking tape. I will be taking this back for fixing, but would appreciate any thoughts from you in the meantime. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteSorry for the late response. If you haven't found a way to remove the tape residue yet, I find that using a magic eraser along with either denatured alcohol or Naphtha works to remove residue pretty well along. Just be careful to keep the magic eraser off of the finished powder coat because it can affect the color.
ReplyDeleteHello!
ReplyDeleteI have coated wheels according your advice. Base coated silver sparkle. Fully cured,cooled. Clearcoated with candy black smoke. Baked, cooled. They look very good but when i swiped over them with my finger, it left a mark, a soft scratch. What could be an issue ? Does my pyrometer show wrong temp or should have i baked them longer or what else can be a problem ? I am coating with gema proffessional gear. And never before had this happened
Does it matter how thin an item is for a cure time or is the minimum 15mins for all parts that have been coated
ReplyDeleteCan anyone help out with a wiring diagram?
ReplyDelete