Media blasting also known as sandblasting is a great preparation method for powder coating.
When powder coating, it is very important that the item you are coating is completely clean of oils, dirt, paint, rust, corrosion, and damaged plating (zinc, nickel, chrome, etc). All of these things can interfere with the powder coating process causing imperfections in the finish or causing it to fail completely. After cleaning your item of all oils and dirt, a media blaster does the job of removing rust and corrosion very easily and thoroughly when compared to other methods.
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A sandblaster uses high pressure air to propel sand or other media. When this media hits the metal, it can knock off rust, scale, dirt, paint, or other coatings giving you a clean bare metal surface. This sandblasting gun can be placed inside of a sealed cabinet to contain all your media and allow you to reuse it. This cabinet is called a blast cabinet. There are also sandblasting guns and nozzles that can be used outside of a cabinet, such as in a blast room, or just anywhere outdoors. However, these require that you wear some personal protection equipment to keep your skin, eyes, and lungs safe.
To use a sandblaster, you will need an air compressor to supply you with this high pressure air, and a sandblaster consumes a lot of air so you will need a decent sized compressor. To see what kind of compressor you need or to see if your compressor is up to the task, take a look at "Choosing an Air Compressor" Many DIY sandblasters out there state that you need at least a 2 stage 80 gallon air compressor that puts out at least 15cfm@90psi to sandblast. Air compressors are not cheap, even used, so while a large compressor like that would be ideal, you CAN make due with a smaller compressor. The general rule is to buy the most compressor you can afford, but if you can only afford a 5 gallon pancake air compressor, keep saving! I personally use a Husky 60 gallon air compressor that puts out 11cfm@90psi which is enough to blast continuously, however the I do stop to give the compressor breaks.
Sandblasting also requires very dry air from the air compressor. Otherwise the media mixes with the moisture and causes frequent clogging. Another downside to this is, is that when powder coating, you want your part to be perfectly clean after sandblasting. If you are blasting with oily, moisture laden air, then this will likely cause defects in the finish. See How to Dry Compressed Air for more info on this.
Siphon Feed VS. Pressure Pot Sand Blaster?
This Skat Blast Sandblasting Gun is the gun in my cabinet. This is the best sandblasting gun I have used and it is worth the price. The long handle makes it very comfortable to use since it requires very little effort to keep it depressed. It also feels more powerful than cheaper sandblasting guns and makes quicker work of sandblasting jobs. It comes with a steel nozzle, but after it gets worn out, I recommend using ceramic nozzles as they last much longer, or even better would be a carbide nozzle as it will last a very long time.
There are different versions of the gun and nozzles available for different air compressors:
Air Compressor Output Gun Nozzle
4-9 CFM S-35 Small Small Ceramic
10-15 CFM S-35 Medium Medium Ceramic / Medium Carbide
20-25 CFM C-35-S Large Large Ceramic
25+ CFM High-Volume Gun High-Volume Head
I also have a Campbell Hausfeld gun as a backup gun. It is cheaper but it seems to make the entire sandblasting process take longer. With all things being equal, the Skat Blast gun just finishes jobs quicker than the Campbell Hausfeld gun. The trigger is also much shorter on the Campbell Hausfeld gun so it requires more effort to depress it. After sandblasting for awhile, it is noticeably less comfortable than the Skat Blast gun. That being said, it is still a good gun for the price. It comes with its own media tube so you can use it inside of a blast cabinet or you an stick the tube in a bucket of media and use it anywhere. It also comes with a ceramic tip which lasts much longer than steel tips. However, if you plan on sandblasting on regular intervals, I highly recommend the the Skat Blast gun instead.
A pressure pot blaster generally looks like a propane tank with legs. It has a lid on top to pour media into and a smaller valve on the bottom where the media exits and goes to your sandblasting nozzle. The air supply from your compressor actually goes to the tank and to the valve at the bottom. This way the media is pressurized. This way the media is being forced out of that valve at the bottom and then the other air line is forcing that media + air to your sandblast nozzle.
A pressure pot blaster is more efficient than a siphon blaster. It uses less air and blasts about 4 times faster than a siphon-fed blaster. If you have a big job to do with a lot of surface area, a pressure pot is the way to go. However, they are more of an "outside" or in a "blasting room" tool. Once the tank runs out of media, you will have to either add new media, or sweep up the media on the ground and pour it back into the tank. If you recycle your media like this, make sure you filter the media somehow. I have a piece of widow screen that I folded over itself to make it filter more finely. A small rock can clog the machine.
Sandblasting Cabinet
Now that you understand the types of blasters, there are several environments where you can do your blasting. Blasting is a messy process. It creates lots of dust that will coat an entire garage, it throws media everywhere, and the media that hits tends to sting a little. Blasting can also be dangerous, a powerful blaster can take off skin. Media bouncing back at you can cause damage to your eyes, and the dust can damage your lungs, especially if using sand as your blasting media. So keeping that in mind, you can blast outdoors with some personal protection equipment, you can dedicate an entire room to blasting which will also require protective gear, or you can use a sand blasting cabinet.
Here is a bench top sandblasting cabinet. They are smaller, and don't have the funnel on the bottom that lends to easy media changes. However they can sit on a bench in the garage, taking up less room.
The best media for sandblasting is not sand
There are many type of media to choose from when blasting. Having the ability to sandblast opens up a lot of options in the garage, not just for powder coating. For now, I will talk about the type of media that you want to use for powder coating prep.
Coal slag: This media is very cheap, it leaves a good profile, and it lasts a pretty long time. It is great at stripping paint and rust very fast. Examples of coal slag is the popular brand: Black Diamond, its sold at Tractor Supply Company. 50lbs is about $7.
Aluminum Oxide: This is a very aggressive media that easily removes rust, paint, and is more efficient at removing powder coat than the coal slag. It is pricier, but it lasts much longer. There is also much less dust produced with aluminum oxide than with coal slag. This leaves a great profile in a steel or iron part to be powder coated. If you are doing any ceramic coating, aluminum oxide media is required to achieve the correct surface profile. Keep in mind that because this is can be a more aggressive blasting media, that it can leave too much of a profile on softer metals such as aluminum. If the profile is too heavy, it may be visible through the powder coating finish, giving it a grainy appearance. Lowering the air pressure and keeping the sandblasting gun further away from the surface of the part will help with this.
Sand: Sand is the cheapest but I never recommend using sand. You can get a bag of play sand from Home Depot for next to nothing. However, sand is very dusty, making it almost impossible to see in the cabinet. Sand also produces silica dust when blasting which can severely damage your lungs even when using a cabinet. The only safe way to use sand is with a supplied air breathing system.
To continue reading about media blasting, click here: Media Blasting Part II
Thank you for posting this! I found it very helpful. I have been trying to find powder coating services in Illinois, but dont know what to really look for. Do you have any suggestions as to what to expect and look for in a powder coating service?
ReplyDeleteThis appear to be great equipment that facilitates effective powder coating. Thanks for sharing
ReplyDeleteTo be clear, If I use the grounding rod, I no longer need the alligator clip on the eastwood?
ReplyDeleteYes that is correct. Once your parts are connected to the ground rod, you no longer need the ground clip that come with the eastwood guns.
DeleteHey Sean- SidVicious again. I picked up my compressor & blast cabinet today. Besides Alum Oxide, what would you recommend for stripping aluminum? I've heard walnut shells are good- but wanted to get a second opinion.
ReplyDeleteI personally use Black Diamond Coal Slag blast media from Tractor Supply Company. I use the one marked "fine". It comes in 50lb bags for around $7 which is a great deal. However, it is pretty aggressive when you first take it out of the bag, so I like to wear it down a little bit on steel or iron parts before I use it on aluminum. Aluminum oxide can be even more aggressive than the Coal Slag, but powder coating shops will still use both on Aluminum. It is good to use a reduced psi, try 60-70psi and keep a little distance from the part with the blasting gun. Walnut shells are probably too soft, they are great for removing paint on delicate parts, but they will not leave the desired profile for powder coating. They also leave oils on the parts which would not be good for a powder coating. Of course, you can degrease it again, but I see no reason to add possible problems.
DeleteSo just to re-cap, Coal Slag or Aluminum Oxide would both work fine on Aluminum, just don't blast at point-blank range and lower the blasting pressure down to around 60-70psi with your regulator.
Awesome. Thanks very much. I start putting everything together tomorrow.
DeleteI use sand in a small portable blast hopper from Sears in the backyard. The sand goes on the ground no clean up and little dust to worry about. I am careful about the toxicity of material I removed from parts cleaned.
ReplyDeleteEven though the sand all eventually lands on the ground and leaves no cleanup, the dangerous part about the sand is the microscopic particles that are flying around while you are blasting. You do not want to breath blasting dust, especially sand. I recommend either switching to a safer blasting alternative like aluminum oxide or coal slag, or wearing a supplied air respirator if you want to stick with sand.
Deletehi any one know how to remove acralyic paint from matel iam from pakistna here no any things like soda blasting can any one help me how to make soda blasting my self
ReplyDeletemy contact no add
faraz.scn@gmail.com
00923152328918
Do I need to go through the same blasting process you mentioned above for bare aluminum? Also, can you use soda for prepping aluminum?
ReplyDeleteYes, aluminum should also be media blasted to provide a profile. Soda blasting, while great at cleaning up parts and removing paint does not create any profile or tooth on the parts so it is a poor choice for blasting with. I personally use soda blasting to clean up gasket areas and stuff like that because it is so delicate.
Deleteso after the sand blasting is there any more further cleaning that needs to be done like a finale wipe down with something ??thanks
ReplyDeleteMy post-blast cleaning consists of blowing off the part with air while brushing it with a clean stiff-bristled brush to remove any stuck media. I only handle the part with clean gloves after it comes out of the blasting cabinet. I find that this is the only level of cleaning necessary after blasting. However, if you do touch the part after blasting or accidentally drop it on the floor, it can be cleaned off with denatured alcohol and a low-lint towel. This often leaves lint and fuzz on the part though. Many powder coaters then use a torch to go over the part and burn off the fuzz.
DeleteI have billet aluminum door handles with chipped chrome plate. Should I blast the plate off before powder coating?
ReplyDeleteYes anytime the chrome is compromised, it must be completely removed before powder coating. IF you are to blast it off, then you can go that route. However, most chromes, when adhered well are a pain to blast off and have to be taken to a chrome plater to have them remove it.
DeleteI have a custom sport bike i'm building and need advice on the best media for for cabinet blasting aluminum parts. 99% is aluminum and want to make sure i'm getting the right profile for the job without worries of impregnation?
ReplyDeleteIs 80 grit steel blast media a good type of media to use
ReplyDeleteThis is a great resource! I have some aluminum enclosures that need to be sandblasted prior to powder coating. I need a media that can remove tooling marks from the CNC mill, yet is fine enough not to destroy the features on my part. I've been recommended 120-grit aluminum oxide for this, but thought I'd ask for opinions here. What do you recommend?
ReplyDeleteGive garnet a try sometime. I'm using 100-grit garnet in my blast cabinet and it's the best media I've ever used. Very low-dust, physiologically inert, durable as hell, leaves a profile very similar to aluminum oxide...The only downside is it's not cheap.
ReplyDeleteYour post are detailed and informative. Thank you for thanking the time to write these. What are your thoughts on slurry cabinets like the raptor blaster or vapor honing technologies cabinets or even a graco vapor blasting machine ? Do they have an advantage in terms of prep time over dry blasting?
ReplyDelete